Xi’an: Back to Chinese History
Text and photographs by Bruno Maestrini
When I was a little boy in Brazil, I became fascinated with history, read The Lost World, the Arthur Conan Doyle book that inspired Jurassic Park, and dreamed of becoming an archaeologist like Indiana Jones. I wanted to travel the world to search for hidden treasures, buried for centuries. When I read about the Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an, they carved out a special place in my imaginary future. I was amazed at how something so magnificent could be hidden from plain view for so long.
Back then I had no idea that China was the furthest place on earth from my birthplace and I could definitely not imagine living there when I grew up. But here I am. And after almost three years of working in Beijing, I finally found the opportunity to visit the site I had imagined for so long.
I was very impressed with Xi’an. If you’re into history, it’s the place to go. It has the necessary infrastructure to attract foreign tourists such as signs in proper English and restaurants everywhere. I stayed inside the old city walls, which is an area definitely worth checking out, and found it extremely convenient. With help from my smartphone I was able to easily catch a bus or subway to all the sites I wanted to see.
One great spot is the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, which was built several centuries ago and towers over a park with a temple. If you have enough stamina and patience to climb crowded narrow stairs with heavy traffic both directions, it’s worth doing. The summit provides a clear view of the famous Bell Tower.
Xi’an’s timeless Bell Tower is impossible to miss. Perfectly centered in the middle of town is a beautiful building ready to greet passersby during day or night, when its lights radiate throughout the town.
Still, my favorite is Small Wild Goose Pagoda. The larger pagoda appears fresh off restoration, as are many sites in China; I was pleasantly surprised to see that the little one wasn’t. After several earthquakes, the building is partially crumbling, emanating authenticity in a country known for fakes. You can also ascend this one, but its view features mostly modern buildings.
After so much walking, one needs to eat. A place not to be missed in Xi’an is the Muslim Quarter , full of street vendors selling exquisite and varying foods. There, everyone will find something they like. Candy makers put on a show for tourists by pulling and stretching caramel for all to see. Butchers slice up animals before your eyes. Intestines, stomach and many other ingredients odd to Westerners are barbecued or thrown together in a soup. This small area surrounded by several mosques was one of the first Muslim settlements of China.
The Bell Tower is located right beside a very busy shopping district, full of restaurants.
Recently reassembled terracotta warrior waits to go to the next step in the restoration process.
The climax of my visit, expectedly, was the Terracotta Army of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China. No trip to Xi’an is complete without seeing the warriors – even a trip to China!
At first, I didn’t know what to expect. Would we be able to see them up close? Would they be behind glass like in a museum?
Thirty years after reading about them for the first time, I was finally there. I walked into pit #1, the biggest of four, and 6,000 warriors appeared before my eyes. In the front, live soldiers stand guard and in the back, archaeologists excavate bits and pieces and put them back together like a jigsaw puzzle. All of the work happened in front of our eyes, just a few meters away. This rawness and transparency in history, uncommon in China, impressed me profoundly. Everything felt absolutely authentic. I had seen some statues in museums around the world in special exhibits and it wasn’t the same. I was most awestruck about witnessing history being pieced back together. That beats any replica.
I can safely say that the Terracotta Army is among the most impressive archaeological sites I have ever visited. And don’t worry: They still have plenty of statues to restore so you’ll have time to see them work.
To me, Xi’an is about history. It is a place where you can travel back in time and imagine China in ancient times while still enjoying the comforts of modern hotels and restaurants.
Two men prepare a stew and bread to sell at a very busy street in the Muslim Quarter.
Candy maker puts a show for tourists as he stretches hand-made candy in the Muslim Quarter.
Woman plays catch with a little girl in the Forest of Steles (Beilin) Museum.