Breaking the Ice: Winter Swimming Heat in Beijing
Text and photographs by Laurent Hou
One of Houhai’s most cold-resistant swimmers braves the thick ice on a cold January day while people play on the frozen lake.
“It doesn’t feel that bad!” With a splash, the man jumps into the water. “Aaaaah, it is damn cold!” These are familiar declarations overheard during winter at both Beijing’s Houhai Lake in the historical heart of the city and Yuyuantan Park in the west. In both places, groups brave the icy water on a daily basis. Swimmers can be seen from sunrise to sunset, but the busiest times are early morning and early afternoon.
Why do they enjoy an activity that seems like torture to others? Most cite health benefits and the fun of the challenge. Science even backs up their claims. Studies suggests that winter swimmers experience less stress and fatigue, have more energy, better memory and a healthier respiratory system. Others claim that the cold water provides great relief for arthritis. According to a man in his forties, winter swimming helped him lose belly fat and build muscle. “But of course, you also need to do other kinds of physical exercise,” he adds.
Despite the advantages of winter swimming, one should be careful before diving in. Swimmers should first get used to the cold air for some time and stand outside in only a swimming suit. Otherwise, the drastic change in temperature could be disastrous. Even after adjusting to the cold, only experienced swimmers dive directly into the water. Beginners need to splash water on themselves before immersing their whole body. Swimmers often measure the water temperature. On a relatively warm winter day in Yuyuantan, the water was 3.4 degrees Celsius. On a colder day in Houhai, it was only 1 degree. In such a situation, most swimmers stay in the water less than one minute, but there are exceptions. In January, I met a swimmer in Houhai who stayed in the water for half an hour, which would cause hypothermia in most people. Before swimming, one needs to prepare: Veterans strongly advise against any alcohol consumption before swimming. It may give the drinker the illusion of warmth, but alcohol actually accelerates hypothermia. Eating too much is not advisable either, but a completely empty stomach is also a no-no. Experts recommend consuming a bit of rice porridge, and one swimmer revealed that he often brings a piece of chocolate as an extra boost. After swimmers emerge from the water, they rinse with water they bring. Some bring cold water while others like it lukewarm. After a wet swimming suit is removed, it often freezes. Although winter swimming can be good for healthy adults, it can be risky for children and the elderly as well as those suffering from heart or respiratory diseases, obesity, high blood pressure or arrhythmia.
It’s hard to find younger folks engaging in winter swimming in Beijing. Most swimmers are aged around 50 or 60, and the youngest I met was 30. That swimmer comes early in the morning with his laptop and bag, and then goes directly to work. I did hear about a swimmer in his twenties. The oldest swimmer I met was a woman in her 70s, who is a bit of a celebrity in the Houhai community. People refer to her as “Lao Taitai” (Old Lady), and ceremoniously joke with her. Most swimmers have very lively personalities and like to interact with people. They know that they have become a sort of tourist attraction, but the majority don’t mind or even like the attention they get. If a passing child says, “Mom, it is so cold. Is he really going to swim?” the comment usually gives the swimmer extra motivation to enter water quickly with a spectacular jump. The swimmers also have regular fans. A man who lives near Houhai (but who never dared swim in winter conditions) helps them break the ice every morning. Joggers and others playing various games in the area also exchange warm greetings and chat with the swimmers. They perform an impressive activity, and becoming part of a community builds confidence. When I asked the younger swimmer what got him started, he told me: “I just stumbled on the swimmers in Houhai one day, and I thought it looked really cool. So I had to give it try, and now it makes me very happy.” Swimmers often wear the activity on their sleeves. Their names on social networks prove it: “The swimmer”, “Man in water”, “Wise dolphin”.
China’s winter swimming community is quite well organized, with many associations all around the country. In Houhai, I met a swimmer wearing a cap with the logo of the Yuyuantan swimming community. I discovered that it was a present from a friend who swims there: the two communities in Beijing are quite well connected. Some members even travel to other Chinese provinces to meet other swimmers and swim in new environments. A man showed me pictures of Urumqi, capital of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, where he swam with the locals. Winter swimmers even organize big events, like the China Jinan International Winter Swimming Festival, which attracts swimmers from all over the world.
Before getting into the water, swimmers often exercise a bit. This man even goes for the splits.
This swimmer makes an impressive dive in Yuyuantan Park, near the Central Radio and TV Tower, Beijing’s tallest building.